Charlotte Plumber DIY Series: How to Troubleshoot a Broken Water Heater: Part II

Is your electric water heater not working, and you don’t know why? Listed here are some problems you may be having and how to troubleshoot and repair them. This is Part II of a two-part Charlotte plumber DIY guide on potential water heater problems and solutions. Read the other half of the guide here.

Problem 4: Water leaks

Potential Causes

  • Defective temperature and pressure (T&P) valve
  • T&P valve leak from excessive pressure, overheating, or is stuck
  • Leak from overhead or nearby plumbing connection
  • Leak from bad gasket or loose heating element bolt(s)
  • Leaking water tank (corrosion likely)

Potential Repairs

  • Put a bucket underneath the overflow pipe. Open and flush the T&P valve clear of debris. If a leak continues from the valve, replace the T&P valve.
  • Reduce the thermostat setting to prevent tank from overheating
  • If leak is coming from a pipe connection such as water inlet or outlet or T&P valve threaded connection, tighten the connection using an adjustable wrench to simply make the connection tighter. Be sure to not over-tighten!
  • If leak is from heating element, try to tighten the heating element mounting bolts with the water and power to the water heater turned off. Make sure they are tighter, but again, do not over-tighten.
  • If heating element leak persists after snugging bolts, detach the heating element and exchange the gasket.
  • If the leak is coming from a corroded water heater storage tank then the water heater needs to be replaced.

Problem 5: Rust colored water

Potential Causes

  • Corrosion occurring inside glass lined tank
  • Sacrificial anode rod is worsening (purpose of anode rod is to dissolve slowly to prevent rusting in the tank)

Potential Repairs

  • Exchange sacrificial anode rod with magnesium anode rod. Anode rods are available from a plumbing supply house.

Problem 6: Rotten egg odor

Potential Causes

  • Hydrogen gas created from decay of sacrificial anode feeding bacteria in the tank and creating sediment

Potential Repairs

  • Flush water heater
  • Treat tank and run some of the solution into water lines, using a hydrogen peroxide solution of 2 pints 3% peroxide to 40 gallons of water.
  • Let peroxide solution set in tank and pipes for 2 hours. Solution is not toxic and requires no rinsing.
  • Exchange anode with a zinc-alloy anode, if problem continues.
  • Exchange water heater with a plastic lined tank type, if problem is still present.

Problem 7: Low rumbling or popping noise

Potential Causes

  • Noise heard is the sound of boiling water. Excessive amount sediment buildup in bottom of tank is causing overheating of tank bottom and boiling of water to occur.

Potential Repairs

  • Remove sediment by flushing water heater.

Problem 8: High pitched whining noise

Potential Causes

  • Buildup of scale material on electrical heating elements

Potential Repairs

  • Flush water heater
  • Clean scale from water heater tank and elements
  • Install low-watt density heating elements that have larger surface areas to transfer heat to water more efficiently, conducting less electrical wattage per square inch than a standard high-wattage element.

How ER Plumbing Services Can Help

Still unsure what is wrong with your water heater? Check out Part I of our water heater troubleshooting series here.

Need a Charlotte Plumber?

If you need a Charlotte plumber to repair or replace your water heater, give us a call at 704-269-1066 or use our online contact form. We’ll get your water heater working again today. We’re open 24/7, 365 days a year.

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ER Plumbing Services Testimonials – Best Charlotte Plumber

Looking for a Charlotte plumber?

Need Charlotte emergency plumbing services today?

Check out our testimonials from satisfied customers and give us a call today at 704-269-1066 or 704- 846-5371. 

ER Plumbing Services Testimonials Video

ER Plumbing Services – 20+ years of experience providing Charlotte plumbing services. 

Feel free to contact us through our online contact form if you prefer that to the phone. We’re open 24/7, 365 days a year.

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Charlotte Plumber DIY Series: How to Troubleshoot a Broken Water Heater: Part I

Is your electric water heater not working, and you don’t know why? Listed here are some problems you may be having and how to troubleshoot and repair them.

Let’s take a look at these problems and what possible causes and repairs you can try:

  • No hot water
  • Defective hot water
  • Water temperature too hot
  • Leaky pipe connection
  • Leaky water storage tank
  • Rust colored water
  • Rotten egg odor
  • Low rumbling or popping noise
  • Higher pitched whining

NOTE: Make sure to prepare safely for the job before any troubleshooting is done on the water heater:

  • Shut the power off to the electric water heater by turning off the circuit breaker or fuse powering the heater.

Problem 1: No hot water

Potential Causes

  • Shortage of power to heating elements (from either a tripped circuit breaker or blown fuse handling water heater circuit).
  • Defective electric thermostat
  • Flawed upper electric heating element

Potential Repairs

  • Exchange the blown fuse or reset the tripped circuit breaker
  • Verify power is being provided to the electric water heating element thermostat.
  • Check the upper heating element and replace if required
  • Exchange thermostat or heating element if power is being provided to electric heating element thermostat

Problem 2: Defective hot water

Potential Causes

  • Water heater could be undersized for water heating demands
  • Crossed cold and hot water connections from defective plumbing installation
  • Flawed electric lower or upper heating element or high or low heating element thermostat. (Continuous lukewarm water during a shower is suggestive of a defective upper heating element, while short duration of hot water during a shower is suggestive of a defective lower heating element).

Potential Repairs

  • Check that hot water demand does not surpass capacity of water heater. 75% of the water heater’s capacity should be hot water (e.g., a 40 gallon WH should be used for a demand of 30 gallons).
  • Inspect for crossed connection in the water heater by turning off water supply. Afterwards, open a hot water faucet. If there is water flow, then there is a crossed connection somewhere.
  • Make sure there is power and electrical continuity at the lower and upper heating elements. If needed, exchange the water-heating element. Be sure to clear the tank of any sediment beforehand.
  • Check for power at upper electrical upper thermostat, if elements test successfully. Then if the power is successful, check lower thermostat, and replace if necessary.

Problem 3: Water temperature too hot

Potential Causes

  • Setting on the heating unit thermostat is too high

Potential Repairs

  • Observe upper and lower heating element thermostat settings and lower if set too high. Normal setting is between 110 degrees F and 140 degrees F.

How ER Plumbing Services Can Help

Still unsure what is wrong with your water heater? Check out Part II of our water heater troubleshooting series here.

Need a Charlotte Plumber?

If you need a Charlotte plumber to repair or replace your water heater, give us a call at 704-269-1066 or use our online contact form. We’ll get your water heater working again today. We’re open 24/7, 365 days a year.

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Charlotte Plumber DIY Series: How to Fix a Broken Dishwasher – Part II

Repairing a dishwasher yourself is not challenging and can save you money too. Here are some parts of the dishwasher that could be the source of your problem.  This DIY project has been broken down into two articles since there are so many possibilities. Be sure to check out Part I of this series if you don’t find the problem and solution in this article! It’s bound to be listed under possible options one through three!

Option Four: the belt

There are some older dishwasher models that may use a belt driven pump. In that case, if the belt came off or slipped, then the pump that drains the dishwasher will not function properly. Check the belt for signs of wear, damage, or stretching. If there are signs, replace the belt.

Option Five: the timer

There are some dishwasher models that use a mechanical timer to operate cycles. The timer controls the main pump motor and the drain solenoid or separate drain pump motor (if your model has that style) as well. Typically, the timer is located in the control panel at the top of the dishwasher door. To identify the correct timer contacts that control the drain cycle, a wiring diagram and schematic is required. With a multi-meter, these contacts can be observed for continuity. If they are defective, then the timer will need to be replaced.

Option Six: drain hose

With a clogged or restricted drain hose, a dishwasher cannot drain properly. Typically, restrictions occur most often at the outlet from the pump or drain housing where a check valve may be located, at the input to the household drain system, and anywhere that a kink may have formed in the drain hose.

If you find that food debris is a cause of the draining restriction, then you should take a look at the condition of the food chopper as a source of the problem. The hose should be replaced if it has a kink in it. The new house should be strong enough to prevent any new kinks from forming.

Option Seven: other repair parts

These are the most common parts that can be the causation of a dishwasher to stop draining. However, there are other parts that could still be the perpetrator. Enter your dishwasher’s model number to find out all the parts, schematics, and symptoms of your dishwasher to find out more.

Didn’t Find Your Problem Yet?

Be sure to check out Part I of this series if you don’t find the problem and solution in this article! It’s bound to be listed under possible options one through three!

Need a Charlotte Plumber to Fix Your Dishwasher?

ER Plumbing Services is open 24/7, 365 days a year. We can replace your toilet for you if you’re not up for tackling the job yourself. Give us a call at 704-269-1066 or use our online contact form to schedule service.

Click Here for a Charlotte Plumber Right Away!

 

Matthews NC Plumbers

Charlotte Plumber

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Charlotte Plumber DIY Series: How to Fix a Broken Dishwasher – Part I

Repairing a dishwasher yourself is not challenging and can save you money too. Here are some parts of the dishwasher that could be the source of your problem.  This DIY project has been broken down into two articles since there are so many possibilities. Be sure to check out Part II of this series if you don’t find the problem and solution in this article!

Option One: piston and nut assembly

There are some dishwashers that use a check valve as part of the drain sump. Inside that check valve, there is a piston and nut assembly. The piston and nut assembly may be the problem if your dishwasher is not draining correctly.

At the bottom of the tub beneath the sump cover, is where the piston and nut assembly is located. To retrieve the assembly, you must remove four screws.

Afterwards, the assembly should be able to move up and down freely, and when the piston is in the down position, it should create a tight seal. Please note that if it is not creating a complete, tight seal, the dishwasher will not pump out the water completely and the piston and nut assembly will need to be replaced.

It would also be beneficial to examine the body valve gasket that is over the piston and nut assembly to make sure it still fits properly. If it is damaged or worn, replace it.

Option Two: drain pump and motor

No matter the model of the dishwasher, they all have a method to drain water. Some models have a separate drain pump, some models utilize the main circulating pump along with a drain solenoid and diverter valve or flapper, or most models have a single motor driven pump with two separate compartments, one for circulation and one for drain (each with its own impeller).

With the first type of models listed, the ones that use a separate drain pump, you should inspect if there is any obstruction or damage to the input and output of the pump as well as confirm that power is getting to the pump motor during the drain portion of the cycle. If both are fine, then the problem is with the pump and motor assembly, which you should replace.

With the second type of models listed, the ones with a drain flapper and solenoid, once again, inspect any obstructions and confirm that the solenoid is getting powered and that there is continuity. To make these examinations, use a multi-meter. Make sure that the linkage operating the flapper or diverter is freely moving and replace any parts that are faulty.

With the last and most common type of models listed, the ones that have a two section pump, the drain impeller may be at fault. Firstly, confirm that the motor is running in the proper direction, and if the motor is not running, check for power at the terminals on the motor.

You should inspect door switches, timer or electronic control as a possible cause if voltage is not present. However, the motor windings could be open if the proper voltage is present.

If the motor is humming, it is probable the problem is that the drain impeller is jammed or that the motor is seized. The motor or the motor and pump assembly will need to be replaced if the motor is seized. Once again, a multi-meter can make the electrical checks.

To deduce if the impeller is the problem with the dishwasher, it is necessary to disassemble the pump. Normally, the drain compartment is located beneath the circulating compartment.

First, take off the lower rack, spray arm, pump cover, and filter assembly to gain access to the drain compartment.

Second, examine the drain impeller for damage and if replacement is required.

Verify that the food chopper is in good condition and not permitting large food particles to clog the drain, and that the chopper and impeller are both turning freely.

Option Three: valve flapper

There are some dishwasher models that use a check valve in the drain outlet. This check valve is what permits water to flow in one direction, but also what prevents the dirty water from re-entering the dishwasher. Typically, the valve is a rubber flapper located on the outlet port of the drain pump or housing. The check valve is most likely the problem if the drain house has a restriction or damage on it or if the waster water is re-entering the dishwasher tub.

During the drain portion of the cycle, the flapper valve should fully open. However, during the wash or circulation portion of the cycle, the opening to the pump outlet should be closed. The check valve is the problem and should be replaced if there are no foreign objects restricting this action.

Didn’t Find Your Problem Yet?

This DIY project has been broken down into two articles since there are so many possibilities. Be sure to check out Part II of this series if you don’t find the problem and solution in this article!

Need a Charlotte Plumber to Fix Your Dishwasher?

ER Plumbing Services is open 24/7, 365 days a year. We can replace your toilet for you if you’re not up for tackling the job yourself. Give us a call at 704-269-1066 or use our online contact form to schedule service.

Click Here for a Charlotte Plumber Right Away!

 

Matthews NC Plumbers

Charlotte Plumber

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Charlotte Plumber DIY Series: How to Replace a Toilet

Charlotte Plumber DIY Series: How to Replace a Toilet

Step 1: Put down rags and newspaper

Before you get started, you will need newspapers and/or old towels to set the toilet on once you remove it because an accidental dropped toilet can crack a ceramic tile floor.

Check and make sure the new toilet fits in the space occupied by the old toilet because some newer models can be longer and larger in size than older models.

Step 2: Drain the water

  1. Shut off the water supply that goes to the toilet.
  2. Flush the toilet multiple times when the water supply is disconnected.

*Flushing the toilet repeatedly will remove the water inside the tank and inside the bowl.

  1. Use a container to scoop out any remaining water left inside the bowl.

*This is important to do because remaining water in the bowl an leak out when you carry and dispose of it.

Step 3: Disconnect the toilet

  1. Unscrew the nuts that connect the water supply to the toilet.
  2. Take off the caps that cover the bolts on the base of the toilet.
  3. Unscrew the nuts located under these caps.

Step 4: Undo the seal

  1. Between the toilet bowl and the floor, use a utility knife to score them apart.
  2. Lift the toilet up and place it on top of the old towels and/or newspapers.
  3. Using a putty knife (or something similar), take the wax gasket off.
  4. Block the drainpipe with a rag to stop sewer gas from escaping.

Step 5: Arrange the New Bowl

  1. Insert a new wax gasket on the outlet of the new bowl.

*The tapered side faces away from the bowl.

  1. Make sure the toilet flange is tight and not corroded because this creates a tight connection between the toilet and the waste pipe.

*Just to let you know: The flange is what sits on top of the floor and connects to a collar that fits through the bathroom floor. Historically, the flange used to be what people used for putty, but luckily, there are now several plastic flange gaskets to choose from.

Step 6: Replace wax ring

Replace wax ring with your preference of the many options to choose from.

  1. Some have a plastic insert used to direct water flow.
  2. Some have a wax gasket with an insert #10 that is thicker and provides a good connection when remodeling the bathrooms in older homes or if the flange is set low.
  3. Some have wax gaskets without plastic inserts that can provide a suitable seal against sewer gases for most situations.

Step 7: Apply caulk and set bowl

  1. Set up a bead of caulk to the toilet base.
  2. Take away the rag from the drainpipe.
  3. Lower the bowl into place on top of the flange and then press down.

Step 8: Attach bowl to floor

Tighten the washers and nuts onto the bolts gently because tightening too hard can crack and damage the porcelain.

Step 9: Level toilet out and cover bolts

  1. If the toilet is not level, use plastic toilet shims.
  2. Put plumber’s putty in the caps and put the caps over the bolts.

Step 10: Set the new tank

  1. Place the tank bolts through the tank’s base.
  2. Position the tank over the bowl and gently lower the tank into place to avoid damage.

Step 11: Secure tank to bowl

Fasten the nuts and washers to attach the bowl to the tank.

*It is important to make sure the tank is level.

Step 12: Place a lid on the tank

  1. Once the tank is level, place the tank lid on top of the toilet tank.
  2. Do not seal the connection between the lid and tank.

Step 13: Connect the toilet to water supply

  1. Connect the supply line between the shut-off valve and the fill valve of the toilet.
  2. Tighten the compression nut.
  3. Open the shut-off valve.

Step 14: Apply caulk

  1. Apply a bead of bathroom caulk along the bottom of the toilet because this will seal the joint between the toilet and the floor.
  2. Smooth the caulk by moving a wetted finger along the joint for a clean finish.

 Need a Charlotte Plumber to Replace Your Toilet?

ER Plumbing Services is open 24/7, 365 days a year. We can replace your toilet for you if you’re not up for tackling the job yourself. Give us a call at 704-269-1066 or use our online contact form to schedule service.

Click Here for a Charlotte Plumber Right Away!

Emergency Plumbing Mooresvile NC

Emergency Plumbing Mooresvile NC

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Charlotte Plumber DIY Series: How to Replace a Shower Head

Charlotte Plumber DIY Series: How to Replace a Shower Head

Here are the tools you’ll need to change your shower head:

New Shower Head

Adjustable Wrench (we use an 8-inch)

Teflon Tape (also called Plumber’s Tape)

Now here are some quick and easy steps to change your own shower head!

Step one: Choose your new shower head

Now that you’ve decided that you want to change your shower head yourself and have the tools ready, it’s time to get started! First thing’s first: you’ll have to decide what shower head is the right one for you.

Here are some options you may want to keep in mind when choosing your shower head:

Low-flow variety shower head: this one is great for the environment because it cuts down on the total gallons per minute when the shower is used.

Shower head filter: these are great if you have heavily chlorinated water in your community because it prevents chemical exposure from coming out of the shower head. You may need this if blonde hair has turned shades of green or if there’s orange buildup around the bathtub.

Step two: Take off old shower head

1. To take off the current shower head, use a wrench and open it up wide enough to grip around the notch, and then you can turn the notch counter-clockwise for it to loosen.

*It is easier to turn the wrench if you are gripping it at the very end of the handle so you get more rotation. However, you don’t want apply a lot of force because it is important to be careful about the amount of pressure used to tighten and loosen when it comes to plumbing.*

2. Unscrew the shower head with your hands when it’s loose enough.

Step three: Clean excess residue
Once the old shower head is removed there may be visible leftover material around the pipe such as dirt, marks, remaining rubber gaskets, or plumber’s tape. Don’t worry because this is an easy fix. Simply get a rag, and wipe away all the excess material to get a truly clean start.

Step four: Wrap pipe with Teflon tape

1. With a few layers of the Teflon tame, wrap the threads of the pipe.

*Keep in mind that this type of tape isn’t sticky, but it will attach successfully to the threads of the pipe.*

2. Now, use your finger to smooth out the tape.

Step five: Set up replacement head

Hand-tighten the new shower head clock-wise.

*Note that it’s best to nut use a wrench unless it is clearly stated in the instructions. And if it does say to use one, make sure you don’t over-tighten the shower head (do 1/4 turn each time).*

Step six: Check for leaks

Lastly, turn the shower head on and look and feel around for leaks around the seal.

*If there are none, then you are good to go! Great work!

But if you do find one, that’s not a problem! Simply try and hand-tighten the shower head again and give it another try.*

Need a Charlotte Plumber to Replace Your Shower Head? 

Not sure you can tackle this project on your own? Need a Charlotte plumber? Call ER Plumbing Services at 704-269-1066 or use our online contact form to get immediate service. We are open 24/7, 365 days a year, and we offer a satisfaction guarantee policy.

Click Here for a Charlotte Plumber Now

Charlotte plumber fixes shower

Water temperature problems in shower?

 

 

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Charlotte Plumber DIY Series: How to Install a Garbage Disposal

Charlotte Plumber DIY Series: How to Install a Garbage Disposal

Do you need to install a new garbage disposal but don’t know how? Follow these step-by-step directions to do it yourself.

Step 1: Get ready for the project

First, make sure you have all the supplies you will need and the instruction sheet at hand.

Second, at the circuit-breaker box, turn the power off the disposal.

Last, it could be helpful to check the amperage of the circuit to make sure the disposal will not overload. The amperage should appear on the breaker switch.

Step 2: Disconnect the drain arm and tube

First, remove the drain arm from the disposal unit.

Second, loosen the spring clamp that’s holding the dishwasher drain tube in place with pliers.

Last, disconnect the dishwasher drain tube from the unit.

Step 3: Remove the disposal unit

First, take out the disposal unit by rotating it off the mounting nut and then dump out any residual debris or water.

Second, turn the disposal unit upside-down so you can remove the plate that is covering the electrical connections.

Third, take out the grounding screw and wire nuts and then pull out the cable from the disposal unit. If needed, a strain relief sleeve may be useful for loosening.

Last, remove the present mounting assembly and drain by unscrewing the mounting ring and then pushing the drain flange through the drain hole. It is important to keep in mind that if the new disposal unit is the same model as the old unit, the mounting hardware will not need to be replaced.

Step 4: Set up new hardware

First, underneath the drain flange, arrange a rubber seal — or plumber’s putty if the new disposal doesn’t include rubber seal.

Last, on the drain flange underneath the sink, arrange another rubber seal. Then, connect the metal backup ring, flat side up. Keep in mind that most disposals use metal mounting hardware, but others use plastic, so examine the owner’s manual of disposal for more specific installation procedures if needed.

Step 5: Connect the mounting ring

First, with the three screws, loosely attach the mounting ring. To do this, push the mounting ring up and secure it with the snap ring.

Last, tighten the mounting screws until it is tight and even.

Step 6: Set up the new disposal

First, use a hammer and screwdriver to remove the knock out plug if the disposal will be connected to the dishwasher drain.

Second, to get rid of anything that may be inside the disposal, turn it upside-down and shake it.

Third, remove the electrical plate now and then carefully pull the electrical wires away from the unit.

Last, tighten the strain relief sleeve into place and then push the electrical cable through the sleeve into the disposal. Afterwards, tighten the sleeve firmly.

Step 7: Finish the installation

First, splice white to white and black to black, while linking the electrical wires, and then secure those links with wire nuts.

Second, join the ground wire to the green screw on the disposal and replace the cover plate.

Third, hang the disposal now by twisting and tightening it into place on the mounting nut. Twist the disposal unit it’s properly aligned, and then you can connect the drain arm and dishwasher drainpipe.

Last, run water through the disposal for a few minutes and check for leaks or problems. Then, turn the power back on the disposal.

Please keep in mind that the disposal can be heavy, so it could be beneficial to build a support base to hold it up.

Need A Charlotte Plumber to Install Your Garbage Disposal?

If doing it yourself sounds daunting, give ER Plumbing a call at 704-269-1066 or use our online contact form to set up an appointment. We’ll get your new garbage disposal installed in no time, no mess, no hassle.

 

Emergency Plumbing Rock Hill SC

Emergency Plumbing Rock Hill SC

 

 

 

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Charlotte Plumber DIY Series: How to Install a New Faucet

Charlotte Plumber DIY Series: How to Install a New Faucet

Do you need to install a new faucet but don’t know how? Follow these step-by-step directions to do it yourself.

Step 1: Turn water off

Turn the water off at the main water unit and/or at the valves under the sink.

Step 2: Attach supply lines to sink faucet

First, attach the supply lines to the tailpieces of the faucet.

Second, with a basin wrench or slip-joint pliers, tighten the coupling nuts around the edge of supply lines and tailpieces to connect them together.

Step 3: Spread sealant & Place faucet

First, spread the base of the faucet with a quarter-inch bead of plumber’s putty (or silicon caulk if it’s a marble sink).

Second, put the tailpieces of the faucet with the attached supply lines into the holes in the sink.

Third, place the faucet base parallel to the back of the sink to align, then press the faucet down hard for at least half a minute.

Step 4: Screw on mounting nuts

First, screw the friction washers and the mounting nuts onto the tailpieces of the faucet and with a basin wrench or slip-joint pliers, tighten the nuts up.

Last, after the faucet base had some time to dry, wipe away any excess putty or silicon caulk around the base.

Step 5: Connect supply lines

To shut the valves off and tighten the nuts, attach the faucet’s supply lines. Now with an adjustable wrench and while holding the valve with a different wrench, turn the nuts an extra quarter-turn.

Step 6: Spread sealant to sprayer base

First, spread the base of the sprayer with a quarter-inch bead of plumber’s putty (or silicon caulk if it’s a marble sink).

Second, install the sprayer base’s tailpiece into the opening of the sink.

Step 7: Screw in mounting nuts

First, position the friction washer over the tailpiece if needed.

Second, if it is not already, attach the sprayer hose to the sprayer.

Third, with a basin wrench or slip-joint pliers, screw the mounting nut onto the tailpiece of the sprayer base.

Fourth, wipe away any excess putty from around the base now that it has gotten some time to try.

Step 8: Screw in sprayer hose

First, take the sprayer hose and screw it onto the hose nipple on the bottom of the faucet.

Second, hand-tighten the hose nut and then, with a basin wrench or slip-joint pliers, turn it a quarter turn more.

Need A Charlotte Plumber to Install Your New Faucet?

If doing it yourself sounds daunting, give ER Plumbing a call at 704-269-1066 or use our online contact form to set up an appointment. We’ll get your new faucet installed in no time, no mess, no hassle.

 

Emergency Plumbing Monroe NC

Emergency Plumbing Monroe NC

 

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Charlotte Plumber Offers DIY Leak Detection Tips

Charlotte Plumber Offers DIY Leak Detection Tips

Do you know how to tell if you have a leaky pipe or leaking faucet? Not sure how to perform Charlotte leak detection in your own home? If your water bill spiked or you suspect you have a leak somewhere, follow the advice of this Charlotte plumber. Here at ER Plumbing, we’ve got decades of experience finding leaky pipes and fixing leaky faucets and appliances. We know how to locate a leak and provide quick easy fixes.

How to Check for a Leaky Toilet

Leaky toilets are easily to overlook. You might notice that the toilet is leaking a tiny bit of water all day long, or you might wonder why your toilet seems to flush on it’s own every once in a while. These are signs of a leaky toilet, and they are easy to overlook.

First check around the outside of the toilet. Are you seeing water collecting around the base of the toilet? Look for loose washers or connections. You may have a cracked connection or need to tighten something. Try to identify exactly where the drips are coming from. Use paper towels to find out where the leak is originating.

If you aren’t seeing water outside of the toilet, check for the silent but expensive leaking through a loose flap or problem inside the tank. Put a couple drops of food coloring in the tank and then check the toilet bowl in a half hour. If the water is still clear in the toilet bowl, you don’t have a leak. If the water in the toilet bowl is colored at all, you have a leak.

How to Check the Pipes Underneath your Sinks

Look for strange odors, unexplained dampness, damaged wood or mold under sinks. Use a paper towel to identify exactly where the leak is coming from.

How to Check Under Tubs and Showers

Look for signs of water damage on dry wall, ceilings (under bathrooms) and flooring. Listen for sounds of dripping.

How to Check Behind and Under Appliances

Move appliances and look for signs of water damage from time to time. Check joints and points of connection for loose or cracked washers.

Leaky Faucets

Don’t ignore leaky faucets or showerheads; the steady dripping will cost you more than it will cost to replace it. If you aren’t sure how to change out a leaky faucet, have a plumber help you out.

Hidden Leaks

Unfortunately, most leaks happen in places you can’t see them. Under concrete, behind drywall, in crawl spaces, underground… these are just a few of the places we find leaks. You may have an idea that you have a leak somewhere because you’ve noticed:

  • Water bill spikes
  • Soggy patch in your yard
  • Sink hole developing in your yard
  • Water damage in one small part of your home

We use smoke leak detection devices to locate the leak no matter where it is. Then we use our in house equipment to immediately fix your leak, right away. That way we minimize the expense and even cost of time for you.

How Important is Charlotte Leak Detection?

It’s obvious that major leaks will cost you major money, but minor leaks cost homeowners up to hundreds of dollars. That’s because even a hairline crack or intermittent drip can waste gallons of water, causing your water bill to skyrocket. You may have been meaning to get that leak looked at for months, not realizing how much money you are flushing down the drain.

Get Help from a Charlotte Plumber With Leak Detection Experience

Give us a call at 704-269-1066 or use our online contact form and we’ll get an experienced plumber out to you immediately. We’re open 24/7 and know how to fix leaks, underground or out in the open.

Need a plumber Mathews NC

Prevent Cracked Pipes by Insulating Properly

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